THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1996, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Wednesday, November 6, 1996 TAG: 9611050037
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F5 EDITION: FINAL
COLUMN: TRY THIS
SOURCE: By BETTY DOUGLASS, SPECIAL TO FLAVOR
LENGTH: 45 lines
LEMON GRASS is one of the most common herbs in Southeast Asia cooking. It is known as ``takrai'' in Thailand, ``sereh'' in Indonesia and ``xah'' (pronounced zah) in Vietnam. It also grows in Australia, Africa, South America, Florida and California.
Lemon grass grows in long, pale green stalks that have a woody texture and lemony scent. It is shaped like a green onion but is stiff.
Nancie McDermott in her cookbook ``Real Thai'' (Chronical Books, 1992) writes: ``Lemon grass is seldom eaten as is because it has such a coarse, fibrous texture. It has a delicate flavor and scent and is used like bay leaves in Western cooking, to infuse a sauce, a soup or a curry with its flavor.''
Availability: Lemon grass is available year round in most Asian markets and the produce section of several local supermarkets.
How to buy: An article in a recent issue of Gourmet magazine advises buying the fullest and greenest lemon grass available. When possible, buy lemon grass wrapped in plastic, since the stalks have a tendency to dry out quickly.
How to store: Refrigerate lemon grass, covered, for one to two weeks. It freezes well, says author McDermott, so when you find fresh stalks, buy extra. Trim the tops and wrap the grass tightly before freezing. Use frozen lemon grass straight from the freezer, about double the amount you would use if it were fresh.
How to use: Peel off the outer leaves and use the bottom six inches of the lemon grass in most recipes. Cut thinly crosswise and then finely chop before using or pounding to a paste.
The upper stems and outer leaves, too tough to chew, will give their rich aroma to soups. One stalk will season a quart of stock. Or place the stalks inside the cavity of fish or chicken then steam for a subtle flavor.
Add to rice while cooking or to the poaching liquid for fruits and vegetables. Lemon grass leaves will not become bitter with long cooking, so they can remain in the dish until serving time. But they are not edible.
Try lemon grass in soups, braises, steamed dishes, stir-fries or marinades. ILLUSTRATION: Photo
MARTIN SMITH-RODDEN/The Virginian-Pilot
Lemon grass has a subtle flavor. by CNB