THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1997, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, January 5, 1997 TAG: 9701030218
SECTION: PORTSMOUTH CURRENTS PAGE: 02 EDITION: FINAL
COLUMN: On the Town in Portsmouth
SOURCE: Sam Martinette
LENGTH: 85 lines
With homemade ice cream and unusual bottled sodas, a kid-friendly menu and Norman Rockwell illustrations on the walls, Huckleberry's is reminiscent of an old-fashioned, small-town soda shop.
But there's more to Huckleberry's than sharing a sundae with two straws, like in the old movies. You also can get a burger fixed a dozen different ways, choose from eight to 10 chicken sandwiches, including a garlic, Cajun or Old Bay chicken sandwich, or pick from a half-dozen or more club sandwiches, including a pastrami or burger club. That's not like the old malt shop.
Huckleberry's, on the corner of High and Dinwiddie, started as a frozen custard shop back in 1988, opened by Bobby Brooks and his sister Allison Hamraz, according to Jay Brooks, one of five brothers and two sisters who have made their mark on the Portsmouth restaurant scene. Bobby Brooks and his wife, Glenda, own Lobscouser. Allison and her husband, Kouros, own Scale O' de Whale.
``I started working with Bobby at Fass Brothers Fish House back in 1971,'' explained Jay Brooks, owner of Huckleberry's. ``When he went to Scale O' de Whale in '76, I followed and stayed seven or eight years.''
The brothers worked together again at Lobscouser, then Bobby and Allison opened Huckleberry's.
``They were ahead of their time with custard, so they closed down, reopened for breakfast and I came over here,'' Brooks said. ``I ran the restaurant during the day and taught ballroom dancing at night in Hampton. That's where I met my wife, Terri.''
By September of '89, Jay and his brother Paul had taken over the operation. Today, Jay goes it alone.
``Initially, it was a takeout place, serving what we call `strollers,' but we put in booths that came out of an old diner and tables, and now we serve breakfast and lunch every day,'' Jay said.
Breakfast includes omelets such as a ham and cheese, sausage and cheese, Italian-style or broccoli and cheese ($3.59); steak and provolone, spinach and cream cheese, or Greek ($3.59); and staples such as pancakes or French toast ($2.49), Or you can have Belgian waffles ($3.29), or two eggs and toast with a choice of bacon, ham or sausage ($2.49).
You can get a Square Dog (a pair of grilled hot dogs with slaw or lettuce, tomato and mayo - $2.39), or a pair of beef hot dogs ($2.09). Salads and subs include an Italian chef salad with turkey, provolone, boiled egg and hot peppers ($3.49), a spinach salad with bacon, mushrooms, onions, cucumber, egg and tomatoes ($3.29), a steak, bacon and provolone cheese sub ($3.49), and a ham and Swiss sub ($3.29).
Sandwiches include the trademark ``Stroller,'' a flour wrap stuffed with ham and Swiss, roast beef and American cheese, turkey and provolone, or vegetables, and served with lettuce, tomato and onion ($2.79); pastrami and Swiss on rye ($3.09); a Philly steak of grilled beef, onions, melted American cheese, lettuce, tomato and Italian dressing ($3.09); a Monte Cristo (grilled ham and Swiss on battered bread - $2.79); a BLT ($2.09), tuna melt ($2.79), and a combo of Swiss, American and provolone cheese grilled ($1.79).
Burgers include the Southwestern (with grilled tomatoes, onions, bell and hot peppers, and Monterey Jack cheese - $3.09); a Texas burger with provolone, ham and barbecue sauce ($3.09); and a Cajun or Old Bay burger (choose your seasoning - $2.79). Clubs include a triple-decker with three cheeses, hamburger, bacon and traditional fixings on grilled bread ($3.39); a chicken club with fried or grilled chicken ($3.39); a pastrami ($3.39); and a classic club (turkey, bacon and so forth - $3.09).
There are daily specials ranging from $3 to $4, including meatloaf with mashed potatoes, vegetables, rolls and gravy; spaghetti and meatballs; and a chopped barbecue beef dinner with fries, slaw and rolls.
Desserts include homemade pies, cheesecakes and ice cream, milk shakes, sundaes, and ice cream floats. Huckleberry's also offers a Kid's Menu, with all prices under $2.
Our lunch was served European-style, meaning it came to the table when ready, and I had almost finished my burger before my fries arrived, but the food was hearty and inexpensive. ILLUSTRATION: Photo by SAM MARTINETTE
Jay Brooks owns Huckleberry's, a soda shop and more, on the corner
of High and Dinwiddie streets.
Graphic
AT A GLANCE
Huckleberry's Frozen Desserts & Sandwich Shop: 440 High St.,
397-3752.
Food: breakfast, soup, salads, sandwiches, burgers and homemade
desserts; no ABC.
Prices: most sandwiches and burgers in the $2 to $4 range.
Hours: 7:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. daily.