THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1997, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, February 9, 1997 TAG: 9702060031
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F1 EDITION: FINAL
COLUMN: Morsels
SOURCE: Ruth Fantasia
LENGTH: 62 lines
TUCKED BEHIND a Pizza Hut in the Hills Plaza shopping center on Virginia Beach Boulevard is Sal's Bella Pizza. Unlike the mega chain outlet a hundred or so yards away, Sal's has a sense of familiarity.
``Friday and Saturday nights, seems like everybody knows everybody in here,'' says owner Sal Cuce in his heavy Italian accent.
``It's a neighborhood kind of place,'' interjects customer Roland Bessey.
``Hi, how ya doin'?'' Sal stops to greet almost every customer who comes in.
This is the third restaurant for Sal and his wife, Kathleen. They started with a place down on 14th and Atlantic, then moved on to one in Green Run. But for the past 18 months they've been running the new and improved pizza shop at Lynnhaven.
``The people here have a particular attraction,'' Sal says of the customers. ``They're different somehow.''
Sal's place, it seems, has a particular attraction for customers, too.
Italian arias and Frank Sinatra echo through the sound system. The dining room is filled with the scent of olive oil, garlic and tomatoes. In Sal's, dining becomes a spectator sport as you watch pizza dough being tossed in the air.
Decorated in red, white and green tile, soccer jerseys and posters, Sal's is a casual place that reverberates with the passions of its owner.
Born in Calabria, Italy, Sal says he learned to play soccer before he learned to walk. Then in 1971, after playing the game for his homeland, he moved to Philadelphia to be near his parents, who had previously come to the United States. He married, and learned the business from Kathleen and her parents.
Authenticity is important, Sal says. But authenticity doesn't mean chain-restaurant sameness.
``Every family have a different way of doin' things,'' he says. ``But you have to use fresh ingredients. Ingredients are important. That's why we get the bread for our Philly cheese steak sandwiches from Philly.''
And that's why the restaurant slogan is ``Made by Real Italians.''
During the season, minivans of children in soccer uniforms pull up in front by the team-load. They pile out of the cars and into the booths, clamoring for pizza. Cheese pizza, pepperoni pizza, pizza with mushrooms and sausage. The more sophisticated adult palates may order a stromboli or calzone, a vegetarian roll or a bowl of Kathleen's piping hot soup.
Sal still plays soccer, and coaches community league teams. ``We just won a championship in the men and women's over-30 league,'' he says proudly.
Though he still likes running on the field, don't ask Sal to run the pizza to your door.
No delivery, he says. ``I like to see people. I want to talk to you when I give you your food.'' MEMO: Sal's Bella Pizza is open from 11 a.m. to ``we're supposed to
close at 10 but we never do,'' Monday through Thursdays. Open until
midnight Friday and Saturday. Closed Sundays because Sal and Kathleen
like to spend the day with their four daughters _ or Sal has a soccer
game. Call 431-3100 for to-go orders. ILLUSTRATION: Color photo by Richard L. Dunston\The Virginian-Pilot
Sal Cuce prepares a pot of Chili at his pizza shop in Virginia Beach
while employee Jill Walters observes.