The Virginian-Pilot
                             THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT 
              Copyright (c) 1997, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: Sunday, February 23, 1997             TAG: 9702210039
SECTION: FLAVOR                  PAGE: F6   EDITION: FINAL 
SOURCE: Ruth Fantasia, Flavor editor 
        and M.F. Onderdonk, restaurant critic
                                            LENGTH:   56 lines

HOW TO INTERPRET RESTAURANT REVIEW RATINGS

FLAVOR'S new star system for reviews rates restaurants based on at least two unannounced visits by parties of two or more. The overall rating reviewers assign to each restaurant is a composite of individual ratings for food, ambience and service.

This rating system is based on similar ratings developed by the American Automobile Association, the Mobile Dining Guide and the New York Times.

Ratings do not pass judgment on a restaurant. Rather, they reflect of the type of experience a reader may expect when dining there. Ratings go from zero to five stars as follows:

0 stars - Disappointing; not recommended.

*- Satisfactory; recommended.

**- Agreeable

***- Pleasurable

****- Extraordinary

*****- Unforgettable

The quality of the food weighs most heavily in the overall rating. Service is next, and decor, while important, figures least heavily. For example, a restaurant that gets five stars for food, five for service and three for decor will still get an overall rating of five. On the other hand, a restaurant that gets five for decor and service but only three for food will get an overall rating of four.

Typically, a well run chain restaurant or neighborhood pub will garner one or two stars. Three stars will usually be awarded to a casual bistro with interesting, gourmet-inspired cuisine, and also to a good ethnic restaurant. Four stars will generally go to contemporary fine dining restaurants with upscale creative food. Five stars are reserved for the most special restaurants.

Food. Stars will not be presented for food that is unpalatable or otherwise unacceptable. One star signals food that's decent and properly prepared but quite possibly pre-processed. Two stars means the food is good - much of it fresh. Three stars are awarded for food that is excellent overall, and almost entirely prepared on premises. Four stars goes to outstanding food, all of it fresh. And five stars will be presented only to the most superb, high-quality cuisine.

Service. Zero stars if service was rude, extremely slow or otherwise unacceptable. One star for restaurants with self-service or limited table service. Two stars if service is courteous and attentive with a few delays. Three stars if service is courteous, attentive and prompt. Four stars if staffers are also knowledgeable and well trained. Service which rates five stars is superbly attentive and detailed.

Ambience. Zero stars to a restaurant that is dirty or otherwise blatantly unappealing. One star for casual surroundings. Two stars for a ``theme.'' Three stars means the restaurant is pleasant. Four stars signal a distinctive and elegant decor. For five stars, a restaurant must be the epitome of luxury.


by CNB