The Virginian-Pilot
                             THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT 
              Copyright (c) 1997, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: Sunday, February 23, 1997             TAG: 9702210058
SECTION: HOME & GARDEN           PAGE: G4   EDITION: FINAL 
COLUMN: Gardening 
                                            LENGTH:   87 lines

IRIS GROWER WILLING TO SHARE MANY VARIETIES

Thanks to your column I have met many iris lovers and enjoy showing off my garden when the iris are in bloom. One lady, whose name escapes me, arrived one day and looked over my garden. She left after mentioning that I had a few varieties she didn't have. The next day she arrived with her two grandchildren, opened her trunk and removed nine irises in bags. Each bag was marked with the variety. She traded them for clumps of four irises that I have but she didn't have.

I have seven kinds of Siberian iris now and have greatly expanded my garden. Anyone who would like to buy some at low prices can call me at 427-6380 for directions.

Farrell Braun, Virginia Beach

Farrell Braun lives on several acres, where he grows many irises and other perennials.

During the last four years, I have been trying to develop a small home orchard but have had little success with defining a good spray schedule. I have apples, peaches, nectarines and cherries. The cherries have borne very little fruit, and what fruit the peaches and nectarines have produced has been lost to brown rot. Apples have done somewhat better, but the quality still leaves something to be desired.

I also have strawberries, blueberries, blackberries and raspberries that require less spraying than the fruit trees. I have eliminated Phomopsis twig blight with Benlate and had a fairly decent crop this year after finally getting my pH adjusted. Incidentally, I planted some of the brambles under black plastic for weed control and found that if left too long, it promotes nematode growth. I now use pine needles exclusively for weed control and mulching. It's a little more work but well worth the effort.

I would appreciate a copy of your spray schedule and suggestions for any materials you might recommend for fruit trees.

J. Holland Scott Jr., Onancock

Your letter aptly describes some of the problems in growing fruit in this part of the country. Because of high summer humidity and mild winters, diseases and insects attack the fruit. The spray schedule from Virginia Tech answers your questions. A minimum of seven sprays is required, but if it rains right after you spray, you will need to spray again. Virginia Tech authorities mention only grapes and blueberries as host plants for Phomopsis, and they recommend Benlate or Captan.

It is possible to grow good peaches, and many home gardeners are doing it. Keeping borers out of the trees is the major problem. Nectarines are difficult, because they also get borers.

I've grown good apples, but homeowners who want to grow fruit at home must be satisfied with less than perfect fruit. I found that storage of apples was difficult, and they rot fast unless you store them in a refrigerator.

It's much easier to grow all the berries, as you've discovered. Don't give up. Home-grown fruit is something to be proud of, even if it's not perfect. Those wanting a fruit tree spray schedule need to send a stamped, addressed business envelope to the address listed below.

My 15-year-old hydrangeas never had brown spots on their leaves before last year. They did not grow as profusely as in previous years, and the blooms were much smaller than usual. Would you examine the leaf enclosed and recommend what action to take?

Guy A. Uerhardt, Virginia Beach

Experts at the Hampton Roads Research Center examined your leaf and say it could be insect damage, anything from a cricket to a grasshopper. But the damage was done before you sent the leaf, so there would be no reason to spray afterward.

They also said it could be leaf spot, caused by the very wet summer. Rake up all fallen leaves around the plants and destroy them. In mid-April, spray the new foliage with Daconil or Mancozeb to prevent leaf spot.

If you see insect damage, spray with an insecticide or soap spray. Because your plants showed less growth than normal, fertilize them in late February with a shrub fertilizer or 10-10-10. Use one-half to one cup for each foot in height of the shrub.

Can you please help identify this critter, photo enclosed. We found this large green caterpillar crawling out of the ground in the middle of our lawn in mid-September. We are guessing it is a grub. It seemed too late in the year for a caterpillar.

Philip La Fleur, Chesapeake

Entomologist Peter Schultz, director of the Hampton Roads Research Center, identified your critter as some type of tree-defoliating caterpillar. He said there is often only one or two of them and they fall out of the tree onto your lawn. His advice was not to spray unless you notice your tree being defoliated. If that happens, use Bt, an organic spray, or a chemical spray such as malathion or Sevin. MEMO: No gardening questions will be taken over the phone. Write to

Robert Stiffler, The Virginian-Pilot, 150 W. Brambleton Ave., Norfolk,

Va. 23510. Answers will be published on a space-available basis. For an

earlier reply, send a self-addressed, stamped envelope.


by CNB