
DATE: Sunday, May 11, 1997                  TAG: 9705090230

SECTION: SUFFOLK SUN             PAGE: 08   EDITION: FINAL 

COLUMN: ON THE TOWN 

TYPE: RESTAURANT REVIEW  

SOURCE: Sam Martinette 

                                            LENGTH:   89 lines

SMITHFIELD STATION CAN MAKE NIGHT OUT LAST 'TIL TOMORROW

It's a small space, but owners Tina and Ron Pack have utilized nearly every foot of the land they have into Smithfield Station.

The Waterfront Inn offers 17-rooms, most overlooking the Pagan River, and a marina, with floating docks capable of handling boats up to 70-feet long with a 7-foot draft.

There are two deluxe suites on a pier over the river in a reproduction of the lighthouse on St. Mary's Island off Maryland's Eastern Shore.

The Capt. Sinclair Suite has a fireplace, wet bar, whirlpool tub and an observation tower with a spiral staircase leading up to the cupola.

Smithfield Station also has an outdoor raw bar and grill, bath house and picnic gazebo for marina guests, and a swimming pool for over-night guests.

You'll see the inn and restaurant as you enter Smithfield on South Church Street.

The imposing white frame structure, clearly designed for maximum enjoyment of the water view, has porches along its first and second floors.

Built on pilings over the Pagan River, with two indoor dining rooms and an outdoor deck for warm weather dining, the restaurant offers a good mix of local specialties - the ham that made Smithfield famous, fried chicken and seafood. Every table offers a river view, and the extensive use of glass makes for a cheery experience.

Appetizers include oysters by the dozen ($9.95) or half-dozen ($4.95), steamed or raw; Cherrystone clams ($5.95 for nine, 18 for $10.95); steamed shrimp ($15.95 a pound, or $7.95 a halfpound); fried clam strips ($4.95); Oysters Rockefeller ($5.95 for six, $11.50 a dozen); and a dozen jumbo fried shrimp ($19.95) with a sauce for dipping, suggested for two or more. We tried a side of smoked trout with a horseradish cream ($6.25), nicely done, and the ``Smaller and Gentler Onion Block,'' a deep-fried block of onions that was anything but small ($2.75), much lighter than we expected and easy to eat. At lunch, salads and cold plates include a shrimp salad plate tossed in a creamy dressing with Old Bay ($6.95); a chicken salad plate of chunks of light and dark meat with almonds ($5.95); the Chesapeake Bay pasta salad of rotini, ham, shrimp, green olives and bell pepper in a creamy spice dressing ($5.95); and a Blackened Caesar salad of fresh romaine lettuce with strips of blackened chicken breast ($6.95). The shrimp and chicken salad plates we saw served were wonderful to look at, with slices of fresh fruit filling the plate.

Among the ``light meals'' offered at lunch are Chicken Isle of Wight, a boneless breast, stuffed with ham, Swiss cheese and roasted peanuts ($9.95); a baked, stuffed pork chop with apple brandy dressing ($7.25); a seafood stir-fry of spiced shrimp, scallops and tuna, served over linguini ($9.50); a country-style pan-sauteed lean pork tenderloin ($9.95); and a Smithfield Ham platter with spiced apples ($9.95).

All are served with a choice of potato or rice, vegetable or cole slaw.

From the lunchtime seafood offerings - fried or broiled - that include flounder ($9.95), crabcake ($10.95), scallops ($10.50), jumbo shrimp ($11.95) and a combo platter of all ($14.50), Julie chose broiled catfish ($8.95), while I ordered the ``Country Dinner'' of fried chicken and Smithfield Ham ($6.95). Adding a sliver of the salty ham to a bite of the lightly-fried breast of chicken created an excellent taste sensation. Even the side dish of corn had bits of ham.

With some three dozen dinner entrees, as well as the salads, cold plates and sandwiches (a grilled Reuben with fries and pickle - $4.95, for example, or shrimp salad on a croissant - $6.50), the dinner menu is extensive. The Smithfield Surf & Turf ($20.95) combines local ham with a pair of petite crab cakes, while the Norfolk Combo ($21.95), consists of crabmeat, scallops and shrimp in garlic butter. Tournedos Christina ($19.95) offers a pair of tenderloin medallions over Smithfield Ham with sauteed crabmeat and a Bernaise sauce. Seafood Rockefeller ($20.95) combines fresh fish, scallops and shrimp, pan-sauteed with Pernod and served on linguini and spinach. A 16-ounce T-bone costs $17.95, while Pagan River Pork (stuffed with swiss and Smithfield Ham, breaded and deep-fried) is $15.95. Fried oysters are $13.95; blackened or broiled scallops cost $17.95, and a pair of crab cakes are $21.95. Entrees are served with salad, bread and vegetables.

Smithfield Station offers an ambitious dining experience, and facilities to handle overnight or weekend getaways, not too far from home. ILLUSTRATION: Photo by SAM MARTINETTE

Smithfield Station owners Tina Pack, pictured, and her husband, Ron,

operate a restaurant, 17-room inn and marina.

Graphic

SMITHFIELD STATION

WHAT: Smithfield Station: 415 S. Church St., Smithfield,

399-2874.

FOOD: seafood, steaks, salads, sandwiches, local favorites, full

ABC.

PRICES: dinner entrees $9.95 to $21.95.

HOURS: breakfast Sat. & Sun. (buffet); lunch and dinner daily.