DATE: Wednesday, May 21, 1997               TAG: 9705200059

SECTION: FLAVOR                  PAGE: F1   EDITION: FINAL 

SOURCE: Staff and wire reports 

                                            LENGTH:  104 lines

HOT READING NEW COOKBOOKS FOR THE SUMMER EMPHASIZE HEALTHY EATING, INCLUDING GUIDES FOR BOTH THE NOVICE AND VETERAN GRILLER

It used to be that cookbooks were published in the fall, hitting the shelves just in time for Christmas gift giving. But since cookbooks have gained enormous popularity recently, publishers seem to be getting them off the presses as frequently as the morning paper.

The past few weeks, cookbook publishers have been particularly prolific, sending out a steam of new books targeting our summer eating habits. For the most part, these books concentrate on grilling, health, lighter foods and sometimes, all three.

Grilling

Happily, there are new offerings for both the novice and the veteran griller.

Michael McLaughlin discovered the pleasures of grilling on a tiny hibachi tucked into the fireplace of his Brooklyn, N.Y., apartment. His new cookbook, ``All on the Grill'' (HarperCollins, $22.50) contains 170 recipes for a complete meal, from starters to desserts.

In the introduction he writes, ``properly exploited, the grill is a broiler, a stove-top burner, an oven and the single best way of getting flavor, color and texture into the most kinds of food with the least amount of fuss and fat I know of.''

His cookbook features menus that include appetizers, main dishes, sauces, vegetables and breads.

Whenever possible, recipes are designed to let the reader know what steps can be done ahead.

Chris Schlesinger and John Willoughby, authors of the award-winning ``The Thrill of the Grill,'' have a new cookbook, ``License to Grill'' (William Morrow, $27.50).

Schlesinger and Willoughby have added several new, lighter dimensions to their grilling canon, with more grilled vegetables, more seafood, more pasta and more grillable fruit.

In addition to explaining grilling basics - and providing 200 sizzling recipes - the authors have dedicated a chapter to Hobo Pack Cookery (otherwise known as Boy Scout cooking).

The Hobo Pack recipes include directions for wrapping the food in aluminum foil for cooking directly on the coals.

Suggested accompaniments for the traditional ground beef and vegetables Hobo Pack are a S'more, soda and a peanut butter cup for dessert.

Hot Barbecue'' (Ten Speed Press, $17.95) is the fourth installment in Hugh Carpenter and Teri Sandison's ``Hot'' series.

Each recipe provides instructions for barbecuing, smoking, broiling or roasting, so the reader can choose a method appropriate for the time of the year and the amount of time available for preparing the dish.

Illustrated with full-color photographs, ``Hot Barbecue'' includes recipes for Shrimp with Herb Butter, Spicy Szechwan Chicken, Southern Pulled Pork, Balsamic-Soy Rack of Lamb and Southwest Burgers.

George Hirsch, public television's popular outdoor chef, wants backyard grillers to ``Know Your Fire'' (G.P. Putnam's Sons, $23.95). Written with Marie Bianco, his new cookbook has shopping tips, techniques of seasoning and grilling, preparation tips and more than 175 original recipes.

Seafood

``Charlie Trotter's Seafood'' (Ten Speed Press, $50). In the third volume of the best-selling series that includes ``Charlie Trotter's'' and ``Charlie Trotter's Vegetables,'' chef Trotter presents more than 75 recipes featuring 80 different fish and shellfish. The book is arranged in chapters dictated by wine varietals and styles rather than by foodstuffs, and a wine is recommended for each recipe.

``Pike Place Public Market Seafood Cookbook'' by Braiden Rex-Johnson (Ten Speed Press, $19.95). Rex-Johnson has collected tips, anecdotes and more than 150 fish and shellfish recipes from chefs, restaurateurs, fishmongers and other folks who represent the Market community in Seattle.

Healthy cooking

``Prevention's The Healthy Cook'' by the food editors of Prevention magazine (Rodale Press, $27.95). The collaborative result of top chefs and nutritionists, this cookbook features 450 recipes and hundreds of timesaving tips.

``366 Simply Delicious Dairy-Free Recipes'' by Virginia Beach resident Robin Robertson (Plume, $16.95) includes soups, salads, entrees, desserts and more. Most recipes rely on dairy alternatives such as soy or almond milk.

``Healthy Cooking for People Who Don't Have Time to Cook'' by Jeanne Jones (Rodale Press, $27.95). Jones is known for her ``Cook It Light'' column and more than two dozen cookbooks. This latest cookbook includes 200 recipes that can be prepared in about 15 minutes.

``Eat Fresh, Stay Healthy'' by Tony Tantillo and Sam Gugino (Macmillan, $25). This A-to-Z guide to buying and cooking fruits and vegetables includes 200 delicious and healthful recipes.

``Steven Raichlen's High-Flavor Low-Fat Desserts'' by Steven Raichlen (Viking, $15.95). With recipes for cakes, pies and cheesecake; pastries and crepes; meringues and souffles; fruit desserts and much more. Raichlen is the author of more than a dozen cookbooks including ``High-Flavor, Low-Fat Cooking'' and ``High-Flavor, Low-Fat Vegetarian Cooking.'' MEMO: Associated Press writer Carol Deegan contributed to this report. ILLUSTRATION: [Color Photos]

[Cook Books]

TEN SPEED PRESS

Each recipe in ``Hot Barbecue'' provides instructions for

barbecuing, smoking, broiling or roasting.

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