
DATE: Thursday, June 5, 1997                TAG: 9706040224

SECTION: SUFFOLK SUN             PAGE: 06   EDITION: FINAL 

TYPE: COVER STORY 
SOURCE: BY CAROLE O'KEEFFE, CORRESPONDENT 

DATELINE: SMITHFIELD                        LENGTH:  107 lines

PEACEFUL PLACE OF WAR FORT BOYKIN, ONE OF THE OLDEST SURVIVING FORTS IN THIS COUNTRY, LOOKS MORE LIKE A PLACE FOR A PICNIC THAN FOR BATTLE.

While it is difficult to rank Fort Boykin's importance with a simple stroll through the Smithfield site, a tour by a leading area Civil War historian can have you thinking you all but hear the cannons firing at the enemy from the steep cliff over the James River.

John V. Quarstein, director of the Virginia War Museum in Newport News, led a van load of folks, mostly war history buffs, on a tour that covered more than 150 miles of roadway and five forts used during the Civil War.

The forts he chose to show ranged from earthworks - what looked like simple high and low places in forested areas, to one with buildings under the watchful eyes of a historical society, to one still in use as a military base.

Besides Boykin, the tour stopped at Lee's Mill and Skip's Creek in Newport News, Fort Monroe in Hampton and Fort Norfolk in Norfolk.

Fort Boykin is one of the first forts built in the United States, and the oldest surviving fort, having been built in 1623 to defend against enemies coming by boat and against Indian attacks, Quarstein said. Since then it has been part of every military campaign fought on American soil.

Now it is a peaceful garden and lends itself well to joyous meandering among flowers, trees and well-trod pathways that no doubt were once walked by our forebears under less than enjoyable conditions.

The fort was originally constructed to protect Colonists from threats by Native American Indians and the Spanish, and dubbed ``The Castle,'' according to a brochure published by the Isle of Wight County Public Recreational Facilities Authority.

During the Revolutionary War, Boykin was re-fortified. It was renamed at this time after Maj. Francis Boykin, who was on Gen. George Washington's staff. The fort was instrumental in defending the James River from the hikes of Brig. Maj. Banastre Tarleton and his British cavalry.

Boykin was changed once again - becoming a seven-pointed star formation like Fort Monroe - when it saw duty during the War of 1812. During the war, the British attempted a landing at the fort, but the local military fended off the move.

During the Civil War it was re-fortified in order to keep Union gunboats from making it up the James River to Richmond. Unfortunately for the fort's soldiers, they learned in May 1862 that while the Union's guns could reach the fort, the ammunition fired by fort's guns fell short of reaching the ships. After an exchange of fire, the Confederate soldiers were forced to flee the fort.

When union forces landed on the south side of the James, they found 120 pounds of gunpowder and with their own 600 pounds, blew up two magazines on the fort.

From 1862 to 1908, the fort was left alone and nature made its inroads, according to the authority brochure. In 1908, Mr. and Mrs. Herbert Greer purchased the fort and spent the rest of their lives landscaping and beautifying the grounds.

There is very little to the untrained eye left of the fort today. Certain points are marked, like where a gun was placed to protect the fort from land attack.

The parade ground is an open area where troops assembled. Harriette Eubank of Hampton, who was on the war museum tour, especially wanted to see Boykin.

During the Civil War, her great-grandfather J.R. Ransome enlisted there. He likely stood on the same ground where she and her husband, Elmore, stood on the recent all-day tour.

Magazine A, built in 1861, was destroyed by the Union soldiers. Fragments of brick are still found from that explosion throughout Fort Boykin.

Magazine B was also blown up and visitors can see how the bricks were pushed back by the explosion.

The well is believed to have been built before 1860, but many Confederate artifacts were taken from it in later years.

The Confederates likely threw in much of their belongings just before retreating.

There is also a hole that was likely covered with wooden slabs during the Civil War to protect the soldiers from cannon fire. MEMO: Because of the depth of information and the length of the tour,

the War Museum does not recommend it be attended by children under 10. ILLUSTRATION: Cover file photo

File photo

Fort Boykin, constructed in 1623 to protect American colonists, sits

on a steep cliff overlooking the James River at Burwell's Bay.

Photo by CAROLE O'KEEFE

John V. Quarstein, director of the Virginia War Museum, discusses

the need for high and low spots at a fort, while Lee Patrick

Brennan, bottom, stands in a low area.

Graphics

The layout of Fort Boykin, originally constructed in 1623, was

changed to a seven-point star formation during the War of 1812.

During the war, the British attempted a landing at the fort, but the