
DATE: Sunday, June 15, 1997                 TAG: 9706120233

SECTION: CAROLINA COAST          PAGE: 12   EDITION: FINAL 

COLUMN: EATING OUT 

TYPE: RESTAURANT REVIEW 

SOURCE: BY JEWEL BOND, STAFF WRITER 

DATELINE: KILL DEVIL HILLS                  LENGTH:   98 lines

KOKOMO JOE'S IS A PLACE TO HAVE FUN IT'S THE PLACE TO HAMMER ON A FEW CRABS AND CRACK A FEW BEERS.

Kokomo Joe's Crabhouse & Tiki Bar on the beach road is a festive place. It's a small cinderblock building brightly painted in sea and sand colors where children play Frisbee on the lawn. But this newly-opened eatery emits mixed signals.

Inside the tables turn.

A great bar with mixed drinks and delectable frozen concoctions served with foot-high lollipop-colored paper pinwheels occupies the back of the small dining area. Jimmy Buffett dominates the sound system. This place is a real treat for the dating, young married couples and beach-going partiers.

Kill Devil Hills Mayor Duncan Wright, who owns the establishment with town Commissioner Bill Morris, says this is definitely a family place.

``Our drinks are priced so you can enjoy them - and the kids can still have a good time,'' he said.

Sand buckets filled with peanuts are perched on every table. Just throw the shells on the floor and keep on cracking. There are card game machines to play. And children dance by tables where the young and old alike are dining.

A thatched palm roof over the bar lends a Polynesian flair to Kokomo Joe's - more akin to those in Key West or Barbados than other Outer Banks eateries. And though there's a full-service bar, Wright says his focus is on a crabhouse with a tiki theme. It's just what Wright had in mind when he said he wants it to be a little balmy.

While dining there recently, my husband Bill and I felt the theme of the place was: Just have fun, no matter how old you are.

Our evening started and ended with exemplary service. Beverages were frosty cold. Appetizers were appealing. Entrees were pleasing.

Seven appetizers are offered, mostly fried: Calamari, conch fritters and tempura fried bananas from Key-West cuisine. Shrimp cocktail and oysters for Outer Banks fare are $4.95 to $5.25.

My choice of fried oysters ($4.95) overwhelmed me. A dozen plump, tempura battered, lightly fried oysters filled a good-size platter. (I was told later somebody made a mistake and gave me too many). I made a mental note to leave the cook a tip.

Bill's Conch chowder ($2.25) offered a sweet cream taste, though it wasn't quite steamy enough for a chilly night. The thick, Caribbean inspired, milk-based chowder with potatoes, carrots and onions is a lot like the New England clam chowder. But the Conch meat lends a more delicate flavor to the fritter.

For entrees, I chose the special, grilled tuna ($12.95). Bill ordered the softshell crabs ($12.95). A medley of fresh vegetables, squash and zucchini, accompanied each dish. But you could choose between a baked potato or rice.

The potatoes were losing their fluffy white from being cooked too long. But the tuna was tender-grilled with a perfect mix of jerk spices. Tuna bites flaked apart with the slightest touch.

The two softshells decorating Bill's plate held a light coating of batter that had been fried crisp. A crunchy peanut sauce used to enhance the dish had softened the usually crisp delicacies - but didn't hamper the flavor.

There was no bread served.

With a slice of Key lime pie for dessert ($3.25), we were entertained by 3-year-old Andrew Plante as he danced to a quick tempo Buffett tune. His answer was quick when asked what he liked about this restaurant:

``I had a hot dog on a Frisbee,'' he said. ``And I danced with Mommie.''

Mommie is Jane Plante. She and her husband, Danny, are vacationing for two weeks at a Kill Devil Hills cottage. They were enjoying their evening - but said patrons shouldn't be limited to what they can order, especially when you have kids.

``I wasn't looking for fine dining when I came here. I just wanted to feed Andrew and grab a sandwich,'' Plante said. ``But you can't get a sandwich here after 5 p.m.''

Plante and her sister, Cynthia Bohan, agreed that next time the kids would stay home while they hammer out a few crabs and crack a few beers.

That idea seems very appealing to me. I'm looking forward to my next visit to get into some of those spicy crustaceans - served hot from the steamer with a little wooden hammer. This place already is a hit. ILLUSTRATION: Staff photo by DREW C. WILSON

Rosa Mann of Harbor and Elma Twyne of Manteo eat at late lunch at

Kokomo Joe's. Newly opened and brightly painted, Joe's emits mixed

signals. Inside, the tables turn. This place is a real treat for the

dating, young married couples and beach-going partiers.

Graphic

HOW TO EAT THERE

What: Kokomo Joe's Crabhouse & Tiki Bar

When: 11 a.m. to 2 a.m.

Where: Milepost 9 on the beach road in Kill Devil Hills

Special night: Tuesday, 5 to 9 p.m. Two Can Jam, beach calypso

band. Bring the kids.

Handicapped accessible: No stairs, wide entrance, paved lot,