
DATE: Sunday, September 28, 1997            TAG: 9709250207

SECTION: CAROLINA COAST          PAGE: 10   EDITION: FINAL 

COLUMN: EATING OUT 

TYPE: RESTAURANT REVIEW 

SOURCE: BY JERRY CRONIN, CORRESPONDENT 

DATELINE: MANTEO                            LENGTH:   99 lines

FANS OF FABULOUS FOOD SHOULD DISCOVER MANTEO'S 1587

BY MOST ACCOUNTS, when it came to eating, a pirate's lot was fairly dour: hardtack, fish if you could get it or smoke-preserved meat. Based on this historical fact, it seems the formerly pirate-infested area around Roanoke Island has seen the worst fare and - now that I've experienced 1587 - the best.

1587 is a small restaurant set on the first floor of the Tranquil House Inn - a bed and breakfast establishment on the Manteo waterfront. The restaurant takes its name from the year in which Sir Walter Raleigh's ill-fated explorers arrived to establish the first English settlement in America. The lights of the town harbor and a replica of Raleigh's vessel, the Elizabeth II, provide the backdrop for truly outstanding dining.

My wife and I started off the evening by sharing a soup and an appetizer. The Chilled Mexican Gazpacho with Lump Crabmeat and Mixed Herb Creme Fraiche ($5.75) was very refreshing. The addition of crab to the tangy gazpacho provided a marine element to the dish that worked well.

Our appetizer was a Sesame Encrusted Rare Tuna atop Asian Vegetable Salad, drizzled with Soy-Wasabi Cream ($7.95) The tuna was done to perfection, with the salad and multiple flavorings providing much for the palate to savor.

The theme of abundant, well-matched flavors was carried on into the entrees. We ordered the Mediterranean Saute of Sea Scallops and New Zealand Mussels with Wild Mushrooms, Artichoke Hearts, Spring Onions and Tomatoes in a Chardonnay-Feta Cheese Broth Surrounding Wild Rice ($17.95). 1587 must be on excellent terms with its fishmonger, for the scallops were flawless, with a sweet fresh taste, and the mussels were huge and flavorful. The pairing of chardonnay with feta in the sauce was enjoyable and complemented the richness of the seafood.

Our other entree was Peppered Pan-Seared Ostrich Tenderloin, Fanned Over White Cheddar Mashed Potatoes and crowned with Wild Mushrooms and a fresh Mozzarella Salad. This was surrounded by a Roasted Red Pepper-Horseradish puree. ($23.95) The ostrich - a firm, red meat - was cooked to perfection. Combined with the other elements of the dish it was a quiet stunner, tasty and satisfying.

Other things that looked intriguing on the menu included a Seared, Peppered Yellowfin Tuna over Asian Sauteed Vegetables and Israeli Couscous, topped with a Curried Pineapple Sauce ($18.95) and Apricot BBQ Cervena Venison Medallions over Smoked Gouda Cheese-Roasted Red Pepper Polenta with Light Summer Vegetables ($21.95)

All of our dishes were imaginatively constructed and flawlessly prepared. During our mealtime discussion and later into the evening, we could not think of a better place that either of us had run across in our travels. One of the many striking things about each dish was the presentation.

While the scattering of a few finely chopped green onions or other colored ingredients has become de rigueur for many restaurants playing at the high end of the price scale, the plating of our choices were creative and purposeful. As a result, the swirls of sauce reductions and the garnishes played a noble supporting role in each dish. Particularly enjoyable were the playful fish bones surrounding the seared tuna filet. They were drawn with both a curried creme mayonnaise sauce and fiery red Sriracha - made popular on the Pacific Rim. A dab from the bones added a whole new layer to the wonderful tastes already present in the center of the plate.

Dessert was a Chocolate-Raspberry Torte, glazed with Chocolate Ganache and surrounded by Orange-Caramel glaze ($5.95), and a pretty straight-forward Cappuccino Creme Brulee. ($5.95) The torte was richly flavored, with the orange-caramel glaze putting it over the top into the land of wonderful.

The one disappointing note to the entire evening was the coffee. Both decaf and regular were rather weak, especially when being faced down by two rich desserts. The preparation of a second pot didn't improve matters.

Our only fear about 1587 is that enough people won't discover it. The off-season is a rough time for establishments down on the Banks, let alone one that is set back from the main beach areas. 1587 is superb - and merits becoming a destination restaurant, with people traveling from near and far just for the fabulous food.

According to Executive Chef Donny King, last season was a make or break year for the restaurant. Luckily for them and especially lucky for us, this season was great, and they have decided to stay open through Thanksgiving weekend, opening again on Valentine's Day.

King spend his off-season hunting down new tastes in the Bahamas and providing creativity consulting to other restaurants. Area fans will not have to travel too far for their King fixes. He will serve as a guest chef at 501 City Grill and, along with his sous chef Susan Holton, at Hot Tuna in the Hampton Roads area of southeast Virginia. ILLUSTRATION: Staff colorphoto by DREW WILSON

The 1587 restaurant is downstairs in the Tranquil House Inn on the

Manteo waterfront with a view of the harbor and a replica of the

Elizabeth II.

Graphic

HOW TO EAT THERE

Where: In the Tranquil House Inn, 405 Queen Elizabeth Ave., on

the waterfront in downtown Manteo

When: Dinner 5 to 10 p.m. daily

Cost: Entrees from $17.95 to $23.95

Call: 473-1587

Credit Cards: VISA, MasterCard, American Express, Discover

Handicap Accessible: Yes