
DATE: Sunday, November 9, 1997              TAG: 9711050043

SECTION: FLAVOR                  PAGE: F1   EDITION: FINAL 

TYPE: Restaurant Review 

SOURCE: BY TAMMY JAXTHEIMER, RESTAURANT CRITIC 

                                            LENGTH:  108 lines

NORFOLK EATERY HAS BIG-CITY FLAIR A VAST VARIETY OF DISHES APPEALS TO ALL PALATES AT CAFE 21

TWENTY-FIRST Street in Norfolk has its share of eateries, and for 11 years one named for the street has been a mainstay.

At Cafe 21, a glass vase resembling a stalactite (ceiling rock formation in a cave) greets you at the door and the orange abstract wall mural soothes you into its shadows. The artistic glass-top bar with celestial concave pillar convinces you ``you're not in Kansas anymore.'' I mean Norfolk.

Cafe 21's 10-page, spiral-bound menu takes time to digest but there is something there to appeal to all, even vegetarians. As if that weren't enough, desserts are listed separately on a ``table tent.'' It's also a hip place for a martini, microbrew or a glass of wine. Nine vintages are by the glass from $4 to $5.50 each.

A late Saturday lunch, almost an early dinner, found us among many on that same eating schedule. These ``between hours'' can be painful for diners and staff alike due to changing shifts, but here there was no problem. The friendly, courteous waitstaff seemed genuinely interested in our well-being.

We started with the Calamari Fritto ($5.95), a generous plate of tender rings and tentacles with just the right amount of batter served with aioli-garlic mayonnaise. Unfortunately, instead of the ``quintessential calamari experience'' that the menu touted the dish was dark and greasy.

The Sausage and Cheese Tortellini Soup ($2.95 cup/$3.95 bowl), although tasty, came with mushy vegetables and surface oil. But even these did not hinder us from completion.

Barbecued Chicken Pizza (6.50) proved to be a better appetizer on our follow-up visit. Crisp crust with sweet sauce was laden with chicken, mozzarella and a spattering of red onions.

In addition to California-style pizza, the menu claims ``Norfolk's best Chicago-style stuffed pizza,'' which requires 35 to 45 minutes to prepare.

There are nine sandwiches from which to choose; we went with a ``classic'' chicken salad and ``infamous'' crabcake.

``Cafe 21's Classic Chicken Salad Oreganato Sandwich'' ($6.75) is a big name for just a sandwich. But it deserves all those words and more.

Chunks of marinated breast meat, oregano, scallions and Dijon vinaigrette overflowing on crusty bread is why this sandwich has been enjoyed for years. The menu indicates toasted walnuts, too, but no walnuts were discovered on our visit. They were not missed.

The crabcake sandwich ($7.95), lumps of backfin with minimal binding, came on a croissant which was neither buttery nor flaky but more like a soft roll, complimenting the crabcake.

The menu indicated a homemade roll, but owner Diane Fentress says customers would ask for the croissant, which is the way it was served on the ``old'' menu. Fries and house pickles came with the sandwich but did not boost its stature.

The fries were cold and soggy, the marinated thin yellow squash was slimy and sweet.

Most sandwiches come with mesclun vinaigrette salad unless indicated with fries. Request the greens.

There are nine main courses that are only available after 5 p.m. Entree-like items, however, are available during other times listed on the menu as ``pastas'' and ``cafe favorites.''

Chicken and Apple Curry With Moroccan Couscous ($9.95), was savored, though the chicken chunks were dry on the edges and grains of couscous too soft. The dish's mildness allowed flavor enhancement with the assorted condiments served alongside: peanuts, mango chutney, scallions, tomatoes and yogurt. Even though the menu advertises Moroccan couscous (the more familiar minuscule granules of semolina sifted out of flour), don't expect it. Our plate came with the Israeli variety, similar to miniature pasta pearls. On our second visit, the chicken and couscous dish was served at a nearby table and it looked more lively.

Linguine With Rock Shrimp ($11.95), a healthy portion with equally plentiful shelled shrimp and cherry tomatoes, was ``light'' as indicated and light on garlic too. The pasta was soft instead of al dente, the more popular way to cook noodles. Two bites were gritty, as if some parsley was not thoroughly washed.

The ``after five'' Grilled Double-Cut Pork Chop ($14.50) was served with a heap of wild mushroom risotto and sauteed spinach. The chop, slightly sweet from the brown sugar marinade, was overall moist and tender. The risotto, filled with tomatoes, was devoured.

For an additional $2, a smaller Salad 21 ($4.25) mesclun with citrus-thyme vinaigrette garnished with dried cherries and a toasted baguette slice with goat cheese, can be yours with the after 5 p.m. entrees. The delicious vinaigrette which we had previously enjoyed as a sandwich side, was bland this time.

Also lacking was the dressing for the Onassis, a generous Greek salad. What some would call a ``peasant'' bread is complimentary. Fentress says it is a whole-wheat sour dough. On our first visit the bread, dense and crusty with a yeasty flavor, was irresistible. The following visit did not offer the same. However, the roasted garlic bulb that accompanied the bread was redeeming.

Craftily, desserts stare you in the eye from a refrigerated case at the entrance. Select one before you sit down, because it's one finale you won't want to miss. All desserts are prepared on premise except for the Upside Down German Chocolate Cake, which looked yummy. We opted for in-house delights.

The Apple Cream Torte ($4.50) features a butter crumb crust that supports a firm cheesecake with thin sliced apples and pecan halves that are deliciously candied from cinnamon. This one and others are available for take out, whole or half, and dessert trays, too. MEMO: Reviews are based on two unannounced visits by a party of two or

three, unless otherwise noted. The Virginian-Pilot pays for the

reviewer's meal and those of the guests. Previous restaurant reviews are

available on the Fun page of Pilot Online at http://www.pilotonline.com/ ILLUSTRATION: Color photo

ROY A. BAHLS

Linguine with cherry tomatoes and rock shrimp

Photo

ROY A. BAHLS

Cafe 21 has been a mainstay on Norfolk's 21st Street for 11 years.