
DATE: Sunday, November 16, 1997             TAG: 9711140246

SECTION: CAROLINA COAST          PAGE: 08   EDITION: FINAL 

COLUMN: EATING OUT 

TYPE: RESTAURANT REVIEW 

SOURCE: BY MARSHA BACENKO, CORRESPONDENT 

                                            LENGTH:   78 lines

ARGYLE'S SERVES GOOD MEALS, DELICIOUS DESSERTS

IF YOU WANTED to eat a healthy meal, would you go to a bakery? That's exactly where my husband and I ended up on a recent Saturday evening - Argyle's Cafe & Patisserie.

Argyle's has built a well-deserved reputation for scrumptious bakery items. But they also serve lunch and dinner in their cozy restaurant.

The tasteful interior is decorated in a restful forest green, with each table set in an intimate and private alcove.

Half of the original takeout counter has been converted into a small bar area. Homemade pies, cakes and breads are displayed on the other half.

My husband ordered a black and tan (Guiness and Bass, $3), and I had a glass of house Chardonnay (Vendage, $3) to sip while deciding on our order. My mind was made up as soon as I spied the nightly special. The ``steak and cake'' ($13.95), was a filet mignon and crab cake combo, thus satisfying my urge for beef and fish. My husband ordered chicken Kiev ($9.95).

We shared a shrimp cocktail appetizer ($5.95). The six jumbo shrimp were firm and tasty. The dipping sauce was more subtle than the typical red cocktail sauce. It tasted more like fresh tomato salsa and was a good topping even when scooped onto plain crackers.

House salads came with both meals. The small bowls were filled with crispy greens and crunchy homemade croutons. Our bleu cheese dressing was creamy rather than chunky.

My loaded ``steak and cake'' plate was an attractively presented assortment of filet, crab cake, steamed veggies, corn on the cob and new potatoes. The filet mignon, ordered medium, was cooked perfectly, charred on the outside and juicy on the inside. It was one of the best I've had on the beach, tender and extremely flavorful.

My crab cake had an intriguing flavor. It was mainly crab meat with just enough fresh bread crumbs to hold it together. The unusual ingredient was a hint of horseradish, giving the crab cake a slightly tangy flavor.

Joe's chicken Kiev was fork tender. The herb butter sauce was garlicky and spicy, perfect for soaking up with bread. His dish also came with wild rice and steamed veggies.

However, we both found our side orders, although cooked perfectly, to be a little bland for our tastes. This was easily rectified by a few shakes of pepper.

I couldn't resist dessert. Knowing Argyle's reputation for decadent treats, I picked Triple Fudge Kahlua Torte ($2.75.) It didn't disappoint. The torte, soaked in Kahlua and filled with chocolate mousse, was luscious. The blending of three chocolate flavors was a delight to the taste buds.

Owner Debra Sinkage says her motto is, ``If I won't eat it, I won't serve it.''

She makes just about everything on the menu from scratch, using the purest ingredients she can find.

She won't use frozen or processed foods. ``I won't use the product if I can't pronounce the ingredients,'' she maintains.

Maybe it's Debra and P.J. Sinkage's appreciative attitude about food that makes Argyle's such a dining treat.

You can get the best of both worlds at Argyle's Cafe & Patisserie - healthy food and mouthwatering desserts. ILLUSTRATION: Graphic

HOW TO EAT THERE

What: Argyle's Cafe & Patisserie, 261-7325

Where: Milepost 2, bypass

When: Wednesday through Sunday, 10 a.m.-9 p.m.

Reservations: Suggested

Payment: Visa, Mastercard, American Express, Discover

Handicap accessible: Yes